Pecking Around for Food on the Upper West Side
Cookies? Check. Italian food? Check. Good Chinese? Pretty please!
Back in 2017, the New York Times labeled the Upper West Side a “culinary wasteland.” Tough talk, indeed. But lately, the neighborhood is making waves in the food scene. Essential by Christophe (103 West 77th Street) scored a Michelin Star in 2023, and the Times named Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi (10 Lincoln Center Plaza) the best restaurant in the city for two years in a row (2023 and 2024).
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Jean-Georges (#19), boasting two Michelin Stars, and Barney Greengrass (#66), arguably the quintessential UWS dining experience, also made the latest list. So, maybe if we complain enough, good things will continue to happen.
Now, Upper West Side, let’s talk about what we need. Here are the top three biggest food voids in the neighborhood:
It was a bad omen when the Upper West Side essentially ran the China Club, an all-time legendary nightclub that operated in the basement of The Beacon Hotel at 75th and Broadway, out of the neighborhood.
Known for its legendary Mondays where locals felt like celebs and celebs felt like locals, the China Club built its reputation as a spot for impromptu live music. Prince, Bowie, Bruce, Sting, Stevie Wonder, Rod Stewart, Elton John, and Rick James all jammed at the iconic club at one point or another during its decade-plus tenure on the Upper West Side, which lasted from 1985 to 1997 before it relocated to Midtown and eventually closed in 2000.
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This was a true late-night spot. When the New York Rangers won the Stanley Cup in 1994, they celebrated at the China Club. Derek Jeter of the New York Yankees was a regular on Mondays, and Lawrence Taylor famously left his $75,000 paycheck from the New York Giants behind because he didn’t have any cash to pay his modest $800 bill–and he didn’t pick it up for months.
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That marked the peak of Upper West Side nightlife. During the China Club’s reign, residents began to voice concerns–complaining to the police and Community Board 7–about cars roaming the streets for parking, late-night crowds filtering out until the early hours, and occasional fights around the club. Anthony Mason of the New York Knicks was known for getting into altercations there. In December 1997, “The China Club moved to 47th Street and Eighth Avenue, in part because of neighborhood complaints,” reported The New York Times.
ALSO READ: The Many Restaurants of 208 West 70th Street
The Upper West Side was home to a multitude of late-night clubs over the years but in 2014, neighborhood nightlife died with the closing of Columbus 72.
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With the decline of late-night activity, the Upper West Side also witnessed the disappearance of late-night dining. The original Big Nick’s on Broadway, once a titan in the 24-hour dining landscape, closed in 2013.
French Roast and Westside Restaurant, formerly bustling 24-hour spots, have gradually scaled back their hours over the years. Currently, there are no 24-hour diners left on the UWS; most establishments now close before midnight. The latest option is Cafe 82 at Broadway and 82nd Street, which closes at midnight with takeout until 1 a.m.
Long live The Flame Diner, which is right over the line in Midtown at 893 Ninth Avenue, just below 58th Street.
Imagine this: You find yourself at a bar, club or even a movie–wherever the night takes you. As the evening unfolds, you meet someone and the desire to continue the conversation arises. But it’s too early (or too forward) to invite this person back to your place. You need a safe change of scenery. This is why 24-hour diners are ideal, offering a perfect place for socializing–romantically, with friends or for business. They are havens to simply hang out, even if you’re solo. Or perhaps you’re seeking solace during a breakup, shedding tears in your coffee. A 24-hour diner is where the heart is. Nightclubs or no nightclubs, we need at least one. You know it.
ALSO READ: These Are the Best Restaurants on the Upper West Side
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By David Margolick (long-time contributing Editor at Vanity Fair, contributor at the New York Times, published author)
Abysmal. A wasteland. At least below 96th Street. My theory is that it’s a function of affluence and temperament. The Upper West Side is relatively wealthy and, while politically liberal, culinarily conservative. So, as assertive as they are about most things, West Siders seem content with pedestrian, uninspired Chinese food.
The Chinese restaurants in the neighborhood have picked up on this, and don’t even seem to try; they’re tired, pallid, dull. There’s one just a block or two from me, and I haven’t set foot in it in fifteen years; as I go by it I sneak glances at what the people in there are eating, and I feel sorry for them. The storefront takeout place closest to me delivers instantaneously–an impressive feat, to be sure–but that’s where its energies are directed; its food is so uniformly disappointing that I stopped ordering from them long ago.
While French restaurants are better the fancier they are, the opposite is true for Chinese. So, Shun Lee is awful and while Red Farm is much better, it isn’t right aesthetically; it’s too staid, lacking the clamor and chaos of the authentic Chinese restaurant experience. The best places I’ve found up here, Happy Hot Hunan and Grain House, are unsurprisingly located by Columbia students. And, thank God for them: they are poorer, more discriminating, and more adventurous.
But these places are a long ways from me–too far to shlep up to routinely or to risk takeout. So, for the past several years I’ve gotten my Chinese fix in Midtown, mostly at Lan Sheng on West 36th Street. It had wonderful Sichuan dishes, highly spiced and beautifully prepared–always fresh and steaming. It recently changed hands– it’s now called Oohu–with a new, more streamlined and hipper menu, but it’s still very good.
I went there regularly enough to know the owner–he always greeted me warmly, a rare and wonderful feeling in New York and something which, incidentally, has never happened to me at any Chinese restaurant in my neighborhood. In the waning days of the pandemic, after they’d reopened but before very many people were going back in, I urged–begged–him to come uptown, telling him that if it did, there’d be lines of grateful, hungry people around the block. He seemed intrigued, but nothing ever came of it.
I’m afraid that discriminating Chinese restaurateurs like him have given up on the Upper West Side. I guess I have, too. Maybe I should move to Flushing.
ALSO READ: Hellmann’s Mayonnaise Originated on the UWS!
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A Proper Donut Shop
“Sex and the City” helped ignite the cupcake craze with a scene in the original Magnolia Bakery on Bleecker Street in 2000. Magnolia’s second-ever location later opened right here on the Upper West Side in 2008. Now, the neighborhood’s plethora of cookie options is so expansive you could dedicate a 2,500~ word article to it. But where are the donuts?
Orwasher’s makes one of the best freshly filled jelly donuts and (seasonal) sufganiyot in the city. But beyond that, they only offer plain donuts, which doesn’t qualify them as a proper donut shop. Rainbow Donuts lets you custom-make cake or yeast donuts with various drizzles, sprinkles and fillings (chocolate or vanilla), but they don’t have jelly donuts or many of the classic staple varieties. Mochi Dolci’s mochi-style donuts rock, and Daily Provisions has a few varieties they rotate, but we’re looking for a classic style donut shop to hold court up here.
We don’t need no chain-store donuts. Dunkin’ Donuts? No! Those are minor-league at best, and Krispy Kreme has only one decent donut (hot glaze), which is overly rich and doesn’t have clutch-staying power.
Come fly with me, let’s fly, let’s fly away to the truly iconic Peter Pan Donut & Pastry Shop in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. Their single location is an institution for the local community and donut aficionados alike, serving handmade donuts and pastries, many of which are original recipes. The kicker: all their classic donuts, including sugar jelly, honey dip, and old-fashioned cream crumb, are priced under $2. Specialty donuts like pure raspberry jam, churro cruller, and red velvet volcano with white cream are $2.65.
Peter Pan is open daily and doors typically open at 4:30 a.m., with waitresses in classic green and pink uniforms serving up donuts, pastries, coffee and egg creams. Their egg creams are fantastic and they serve breakfast sandwiches on your choice of bagel, roll, or croissant. You can post on a stool at the counter or take your order to go.
ALSO READ: Remembering Old Restaurants of the Upper West Side
With its cozy old-school family business charm, Peter Pan, which opened in the 1950s, embodies the type of proper donut shop that would seamlessly fit into the Upper West Side’s current culinary climate. Its aura recalls the original H&H Bagels on West 80th and Broadway, which sadly closed in 2011.
Hey, Peter Pan! Would you please take a page from Magnolia Bakery’s playbook and consider opening a second location on the Upper West Side?
This could be the start of donut mania.
This is spot on. We need more 24 hour diners, good Chinese, and local doughnut shops – these types of establishments can be the lifeblood of the UWS!
Don’t sleep on the donuts at Super Nice! Sure, it’s a bit of a hike to 108th, but with a variety of flavors – including vegan options – plus pastries and coffee, it’s worth the distance!
Agree – Super Nice has yummy donuts (vegan Maple Pecan is my fave)!
Or the Donut Pub! Yum
About bloody time! I’ve had conversations about this very subject! Bravo!
LOL Anthoy Mason. I hadn’t heard that name in so long but boy was he a menace on the court too! Legendary Knick at the last time they were truly great.
Nailed it!
Nice to see that someone is willing to write an opinion piece about the lack of offerings for food on the UWS, but the lost era the author laments about is from a bygone era. The UWS has evolved a lot since then and people’s tastes and the economics of running a restaurant have changed a lot since then. The UWS has a lot of Deli’s already but they can’t afford or staff 24 hr service. We want fresh healthy food (Thanks Westville UWS) and high quality unique >3rd wave coffee shops with experienced baristas (no more BLANK street please) – Thank you Picky Barista (72,92,102) and Solid State (71, though please lose the ‘tude)! More coffee shops please, and open later too please (e.g. 6-10pm)
The Author is partially correct about Chinese food between 72-96, but missed out on essentially a revolution in new high quality end asian offerings on 72nd street and especially just a minute above 96th! Atlas Kitchen (109) is Michelin recognized – a one of a kind Mainland chef’s offering, Han Dynasty (85 an exception; Sichuan Asian American style and is excellent) and top Dim Sum places (Jing Fong a NYC classic on 78 another exception, TriDim for a cleaner HK version at 82, and Moon Key – HK classic style from NJ proprietor at 100).
And what about Japanese? Some of the best value and quality and recognition is here on the UWS! Sushi Yasaka (72), Sushi Kaito (72), Sushi W (101), Zurutto Ramen (72), Shinbashi 72. I mean a mochi matcha donut shop (Afternoon) and a Nan Xian Express (107) soup dumping joint just opened up here. If you want to know what is considered GOOD asian food, just look inside and see who is eating there. So I don’t mind the ‘uninspired’ Columbia students proximity to these new establishments, they are eating there to remind them of home (Thank you Hmart, 110 and now 70!)
And the Tacos, it’s phenomenal (El Gallo, 84), Taqueria 86; Motorino for Napolitan pies. We need an article that is inspired a really good guide to the food of the UWS, I mean we have all sorts of amazing stuff, Georgian, Sardinian, Vietnamese, Indian…. but agree with the author overall thesis: we want more high quality and VALUE (for most of us working folk).
Spicy! Learned a lot with this one.I’ve only been living on the Upper West Side about 9 years, but to me, this neighborhood seems like it’s gotten old.
I love the walking and the parks but the uWs is a big time family neighborhood with a lot of old people. I don’t think it was always this way, but it is what it is now.
I’ve always been appalled when I see people complaining they can hear live music in their apartment from a live show in Central Park or something. This is NYC! But when I read about the China Club it makes sense more… the uWs ran out a really cool spot because they don’t want the party here. That’s kinda sad to me.
As a self-proclaimed doughnut aficionado (I’ve tried them in all 50 states), I couldn’t agree more on the lack of quality doughnuts. Oh to have a Doughnut Plant open somewhere in the neighborhood.
Someone else pointed out Han Dynasty on 85th and Jing Fong on 79th. Both excellent. And there are a plethora around the Columbia main campus which cater the the large Chinese foreign student population (so you know it’s good).
The pandemic shortened the hours of many 24 hr diners in the city, not only the UWS. Where there is no night life there is no 24/7 diner.
There is a great Chinese restaurant on Columbus Avenue near 82 Street. It is called Tri Sum West. If you have not tried it I suggest you do.
I LOVE the jelly donuts at the Farmers Market on Columbus — Francesca’s Bakery, I think it’s called.
A Korean BBQ or more americanized Korean fusion restaurant would thrive on the UWS.
Indeed a culinary conundrum! There are pockets of depression (empty storefronts/random chains) that have me and many neighborhood friends perplexed. Most restos close before 21h/9pm, my demographic (33-45) without and with children are many, how are we still so poor in this department. The lack of being able stop at a caffe/bar from breakfast to whatever’s in season locally for lunch, closing right before dinner at 20h/8pm whatever block you pay to live on, with the amount of people in this city, and the insane amount of constant construction in the neighborhood, it feels like a joke sometimes, are we really paying a premium for so much lack. Perhaps too, a booming culinary scene at normal hours — because its an international city not The Truman Show — would relieve the financial pressure the landlords increasingly feel as the u.s. tax system seems to think multibillion dollar companies need more relief then the indiviuduals that make them multi billions. I love that our neighborhood isn’t the LES but I would love to see Broadway full of a variety of restos, caffe bars, bistros, take out, local not chain bread, cheese, etc shops, as well as multi 24hr diners (because the UWS is like 50 blocks) without any pockets of ‘depression’. Even the UES has more variety to offer.
Worth going further up for top notch Chinese at Atlas on 109th off Way or LaSalle Dumpling Room on 125th. Both of these are fantastic, every bit as good as Chinatown.
* off Broadway
At least UWS is famous for bagels. There are bagel shops on every streets and avenues.
Re: Chinese food, I have been really impressed lately by Dim Sum Bloom (Broadway at 98th). Consistenly good quality and delicious, and on some delivery apps, they have buy-one-get-one deals at lunch time. My neighbors seem to like the place as well, since everytime I pass by, I can see that it’s no longer nearly empty as it was in its previous incarnations.
Chun Cha Fu will always be my favorite Chinese restaurant. There’s no comparison.
But Tri Dim West is still a great restaurant. The decor is pleasant. The staff are very nice. And the food is excellent.
Definitely miss Chun Cha Fu!
And not mentioned: Vietnamese at Saigon Grill
“Shun Lee is awful … ” ??? I hope you’re not referring to the one on West 65th. I believe there’s another one by that name somewhere north of West 79th. Do you mean that one? And if so, I hope you write a correction. Terry
Shun Lee-once a power table/place to be & be seen restaurant where folks could enjoy stellar dining in an upscale environment has sadly become a shadow of its former self. The bar was tended by a dedicated experienced bartender and the mixed drinks rivaled Trader Vic’s (for those who remember;) The food has become salty gloppy and just bordering on inedible which was a total disappointment the last time I recently ate here. Shun Lee was a bankable bet for an upscale meal in an attentive environment. The food drinks & service were a tribute to minding the details and knowing what a fine dining experience is. I wish it still was-I had many a good meal and memories there.
The UWS like everything progresses & changes – we’ve had & have great spots for a variety of ethnic and diverse foods. We also have chains that are at least filling empty spaces & while not a culinary destination it speaks to the unreasonable rents that make it impossible for small restaurant owners to make a living. They usually rely upon staff that are seasoned and knowledgeable which adds to the overall costs vs the staff at chains that have become so abysmal that the Duncan D’s on Broadway actually had a shift where no one spoke English…I truly felt bad for them-they were harassed by customers for being unable to communicate.
Bottom line-when we lost H&H we lost part of our DNA. We took another hit when Big Nick’s closed followed by La Caridad @ 78th & B’way. As they say-you had to be there:)
I moved to 77th and Broadway 26 years ago. Then, it was a neighborhood. Within a few-block radius I could get a slice of pizza, a pair of underwear or a belt, a new TV, a meal at a diner or at a better place, visit an Off-Broadway theater, and we even had bodegas! Anyone remember WEBER’S, the huge discount store on Bway and 71st, now a “financial” institution? We even had a McDonalds!
No more “discounts” around here. When Big Nick’s closed, and the Westside Market, we lost our neighborhood. Now it’s just vacant “luxo” shops now. The 70s along Broadway, though still quite pleasing to the eye, have become a desolate stretch with the SOUL scooped out of it. I am quite sad about it.
I would say that Han Dynasty is both “fancy” and good Chinese food.
Otherwise I would say this is spot-on. I miss Big Nick’s and the good hole-in-the-wall Chinese takeout places so much.
Just above 96th st, on Broadway and 97th in the old Human Balcony spot, Dim Sum Bloom is excellent. But it is not cheap! Okay if you go for the lunch specials, have money to burn, or budget to treat yourself every so often.
Some of this town ain’t got no heart. You just gotta peck around!
<3
Hello,
It’s about time we all stopped considering 59th St. to 72nd really part of the UWS. Certainly 59th-70th isn’t. Call it Lincoln Square, or UES.20. But it’s not the UWS I’ve lived in for all of my 73 years. Thoughts?
There are no bagels or donuts in Lincoln square. We need a bagel shop between 60 – 66th st.
So a 24HR Diner that has donuts and Chinese on the menu. Got it.