From the Corner: Florentin Bistro and Bar

  Last modified on March 17th, 2025

Let’s play some Upper West Side trivia. How far back can you go in naming the restaurants that have come and gone at 480 Amsterdam Avenue, on the corner of West 83rd Street? It’s been a bumpy road there, as most recently seen with The Avenue, an Irish pub that closed last August after just over a year.

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In the new year, however, Florentin Bistro and Bar has been quietly gaining momentum in the space, earning a 5-star rating on Google from nearly 150 reviews. Specializing in Mediterranean cuisine with Israeli influences, Florentin’s owner, Udi Vaknin, 46, brings a wealth of experience—from managing the Buddha Bar in the Meatpacking District when it was at its peak to his current role as general manager of Bustan, across the street at 487 Amsterdam. Bustan originally opened in 2014, but Udi and a new team took over in 2019 after a fire.

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Could this be the spot that bucks the trend? ILTUWS went to check it out this week.

When we walked in, Vaknin greeted my guest and me, offering us a seat at the bar while our table was prepared. We both found it fitting to start with the cocktail named Udi’s Boulevardier, toasting him and the restaurant. The drink features Old Forester bourbon, Carpano Antica, and Campari, served over a single large ice cube in an orange-based glass ($16).

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Like the décor in Vaknin’s new space—now outfitted with ceiling fans and light fixtures he brought in from Carbone—the drink was smooth but commanded attention. The music was grooving, with Lady (Hear Me Tonight) by Modjo playing. Our toes tapped along as we took our seats in the corner, at a wood table with a grain you could feel beneath your fingers—full of character.

Next to us, a string of white marble tables framed with wood lined the space, along with benches Vaknin sourced from a New Jersey synagogue.

As we settled in, we asked Vaknin about the John Lennon artwork on the wall—only later realizing he had been DJing the entire evening from his phone, adjusting the volume and lighting in real time to match the vibe. He told us he’d brought the piece from home. Some had suggested taking it down, but he liked it there. So did we—it drips a little rebel into the chic space.

Erica, our waitress, gave us a tour of the menu, highlighting their French onion soup ($12), which comes with croutons and gruyère. Unlike most versions, theirs uses vegetable stock, making it both kosher and vegetarian-friendly. A recent college grad from North Carolina, Erica recommended we try the rainbow carrots ($14), served with brown butter, feta, pine nuts, and chimichurri. The dish was simple but packed with flavor and texture.

We also had the crispy artichoke ($17), which was easy to eat, had a vivacious crunch, and came with tartar sauce and lemon. The marinated olives ($8) will likely find their way to our table next time—Syrian and Kalamata olives in a chili-lemon olive oil.

While my guest opted to double down on Udi’s Boulevardier, I decided to try Florentin’s ginger mojito, made with El Dorado rum, mint, lime, and bubbly bitters ($16). A refreshing choice, if there ever was one. They also offer wine by the glass or bottle, including Giusti Prosecco from Italy ($15/$60) and Côtes de Provence rosé by OTT from France ($18/$72), among others.

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Our main courses came by land and sea: a schnitzel plate ($25), featuring crispy breaded chicken breast, fries, pickle, and harissa aioli, and the Mediterranean branzino ($29), with capers, salsa verde, olive oil, and broccolini. Vaknin had discussed with bated breath his anticipation of these two dishes when telling us about his plans for the space back in 2024, so I had to taste them in fruition. Erica also recommended these options, so our sails were full—and there were no leftovers to take home, except a few tiny bones in the branzino, but we left those on the plate, of course. Excellent all around, especially the branzino, which isn’t an easy dish to pull off or necessarily share, as the fish can get messy as you dig in.

Erica brought out a surprise Florentirimisu ($10), their version of the iconic dessert. I’m not sure I’ve ever had a tiramisu so fluffy. It’s my mother’s favorite dessert, so I’ve sampled many, but I’ve never considered it something I’d necessarily crave. Now I want to bring her here, as this might have been the fluffiest tiramisu I’ve ever had. Vaknin credits Osem Petit Beurre Biscuits, the Israeli version, along with labneh, for the creamy allure. He also clued us in that the name Florentin, while Greek in origin, can also be linked to Italy (Florence) and France (Florentine) in derision.

No matter what you call it, the food is delicious and reasonably priced. Florentin Bistro and Bar has a unique, soulful vibe. Vaknin moves seamlessly through the room while his staff picks up where he leaves off, creating an engaging dynamic. The music ranged from Stealers Wheel’s ‘Stuck in the Middle With You’ to The Chemical Brothers’ ‘Galvanize,’ before wrapping up the night with Chaka Khan’s ‘Ain’t Nobody’ as the final track, just before we left after a quick espresso.

As for our trivia: Before The Avenue, there was Taco Tavern, a rebranding of Barnacho, which took over after J.G. Melon closed its doors. Prior to that, the space was home to another popular burger spot, Joe’s. Raccoon Lodge also used to be here, a nostalgic favorite for many.

Florentin is open daily from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. They also host brunch from Friday to Sunday, serving from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

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