After shuttering during the pandemic in 2020, Xi’an Famous Foods has made a triumphant return to the Upper West Side, with a second neighborhood location near Columbia University also in the works.
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It felt serendipitous that the song “Let Me Find Out” by hip-hop trio Naughty By Nature was playing as I stepped into Xi’an Famous Foods. The layout is simple, featuring three sit-down tables and two standing counters. The no-frills aesthetic lives on at this new Xi’an location, with staff noticeably diligent in clearing and cleaning tables as soon as diners finished their meals.
There’s a kiosk upfront where you can place your order, but if you’re paying with cash, head to the register instead. In the middle of some holiday shopping, I was in the mood for a quick bite before getting back to it, so Xi’an’s spicy lamb cumin burger for $6.45 was an easy choice.
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A favorite of Anthony Bourdain, this burger is a true treat, sautéed with red onions, scallions, and garlic. The spice is nice—the red chile and longhorn peppers add heat without being overpowering—and it’s easy to enjoy in their house-made crispy flatbread. No mess here; the sliced lamb stays neatly in place. My order took just over five minutes to prepare, making this an excellent option for anyone on a budget or in a hurry. You could even enjoy it while strolling around the neighborhood.
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If I were feasting, I would have tried the spicy and sour spinach dumplings as well, priced at $9.65. Wrapped in spinach juice-infused dumpling dough, they’re stuffed with a flavorful mix of ground spinach, wood-ear mushrooms, seitan, carrots, cabbage, vermicelli, and egg. It sounds scrumptious and is served with their signature savory-sour sauces and chili oil, available at the counter for an extra kick. Each order includes seven dumplings.
The hand-ripped Biang Biang noodles are a no-brainer, especially during the winter when you’re braving the elements. I’m a fan of the spicy cumin lamb hand-ripped noodles, whether in soup ($13.85) or on their own ($13.15). But don’t overlook the pork “Zha Jiang” noodles, priced at $11.75. This savory-sweet ground pork meat sauce is topped with fresh, crunchy cucumbers and enhanced by their house noodle dressings of soy and black rice vinegar.
To drink, Xi’an offers a variety of homemade teas for $2.95, including sour hawberry, raspberry, and jasmine.
So grateful to have Xi’an Famous Foods back in the neighborhood. Xi’an is open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
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The best news! Anybody know where the one near Columbia will be located?